When to Ditch the Strike Indicator While Nymph Fishing for Trout



Take em off

Fishing nymphs for trout with a strike indicator can be extremely effective. The length of leader below the float helps determine your depth, so that your flies stay elevated from the river bottom. They keep your patterns adrift while fishing slow water areas like slow seams and eddies. Indicators even allow you to fish extremely long presentations at great distances from your rod tip. But even more importantly, the indicator detects those subtle takes to your fly, which is especially important during slack line presentations. Depending on the water at hand, there is little doubt that indicators help your presentation and elevate your hook-up success.

But there are times when ditching the indicator is a great idea. Here are two such circumstances where indicators are best left in your vest.

Steelhead Flies - Which Fly is Best?

Does fly choice really matter for Steelhead? Will one particular pattern hook more fish than another – granted that both patterns are tied in an enticing manner? Hard to say… What never happens is the chance to fish a piece of water twice, at exactly the same time, with precisely the same presentation, but with 2 different flies. It’s just not in the realm of possibility. So we can only offer up insight about what flies might work or those that have worked in the past, right? Anyways, putting that mumbo aside, here are a few things to keep in mind about fly choice from anglers who have spent many hours on the water, albeit, while operating under human limitations. We might have heard, “steelhead will eat your car keys if presented correctly,” but do we really want to try it? Probably not. When digging in for the next pattern here’s a few thoughts to consider while standing in a river scratching your head.

Steelhead Fishing Tips - Winter

Now that it’s getting cooler and fish are a little less willing to chase flies way up in the water column, I thought I would pass on a few notes about cold-water steelhead presentation. Of course, steelhead are a mysterious lot and at times they shatter expectations. When the planets align they will certainly rise up to flies on floating lines. It happens, however if this is the way you choose to fish, then you must accept the fact that it might take you a very long time to touch a steelhead. As we move into winter, here’s a few things to bolster your chances while seeking these fish.

Steelhead Tips - The Importance of Fishing Short

You’ve got your spey in hand, that rod that can cast great gobs of line, and you can hardly wait to start bombing casts way out to that place where the fish are. You step into the tip of the run and start haphazardly tearing off line and while you do, your fly is swimming not more than 10 feet away from you and it gets hammered by a fish. Chances are, you lost that one because it could not have been a bigger surprise. Does this sound familiar? If not, just wait… It happens with some regularity.

Fish are not always way out in the river. In fact, there are portions of the river, usually in the middle, where the current is most rugged, that are mostly void fish. Fish don’t want the struggle of fighting that type of current. And remember, people have been catching steelhead on single hand rods for many generations before spey took hold in this country. So what’s my point? Well my point is to fish short before trying to cover an entire run with long casts.

Read More of this article on SteelheadBum, our go-to steelhead resource!

Building Loops for Sink Tips - Quick and Easy Style

Just a little blurb about building loops into your sink tips.  This is a pretty convenient technique especially for repairing broken tips while out on the river.  Sorry, still working on the cinematography skills!

Have a good time,

Duffy

Wading Boots - Finding the Right Size

Simms Rivershed

 Buying the wrong boot can cause turmoil. Try not to do this. Fishing is supposed to be enjoyable, so while looking over your options, keep these general rules in mind.

Streamer Fishing for Trout - Sink Tip and Full Sink Fly Lines

Trout and Streamer

If you like to streamer fish, it is best to have some sort of sink-tip line with you. Keep one strung up on another rod, or simply load one up on an extra fly spool.

The benefits are huge.

Why? Well, for one, casting is far easier. When fishing tips, we do not need long lengths of leader. Between 3-5 feet of stout mono is adequate. A short leader means that it is easier to turnover furry, sometimes large and weighted streamers. The transition from fly line to fly is much smoother, and less likely to break down on the cast. Heavy flies or flies that don’t cut through the air very well on the end of a long leader/floating line setup can be a pain to cast.

Furthermore, these lines are dense; so they add weight, and naturally help to flex or load your fly rod. You can really feel the rod come under load which makes for a lot of stored energy and adequate timing on the forward stroke. On the forward cast, as a result of the added density, the line holds its form and forward momentum extremely well. The result is a nice accurate cast to the target.

Sink Tips, Polyleaders, Versileaders - A Buyer's Guide

Find more info like this on our store page; Fly Fishing Buyers Guides

Sink Tips. Polyleaders. Versileaders.

So what’s up with all this talk about tips and sink tips and polyleaders and so on? Well, it can be complicated but we can work through it. Let’s first start by going over the major difference between a tip and a poly/versileader.

RIO Sink Tip Kit

Polyleaders and Versileaders are both words coined by their respective manufacturers. Polyleader – Airflo. Versileader – RIO. Ok, think of these as taking the place of a conventional, mono leader however unlike conventional leaders there is actually a polymer coating that surrounds the inner, mono core. These leaders come in various densities, lengths, strengths and sink rates. Just like your mono leaders, they loop onto the end of your fly line and they are tapered so as to eliminate “hinging” and encourage smooth turnover. They have more overall mass – starting thick at the loop and tapering down to just the mono core at the fly end. So think of these as a leader - A leader that attaches to your fly line the same way a conventional leader would.

A tip on the other hand...

is an extension, or meant to be a part of your fly line that is either fused or looped onto the fly line. Some fly lines are constructed to perform with the addition of a tip. A good example of this is the Rio VersiTip II Fly Line for single hand rods. This particular fly line comes complete with a range of interchangeable tips that match your needs for the situation. Lines that are built to cast tips are very versatile because you may fish it as a floating line or at different depths in the water column.

Switch Rods - What's All The Buzz About?

bent 11 foot 7 weight switch rod

Switch rods get the blue ribbon for fly rod versatility. You can overhead cast them. You can spey cast them. Furthermore, they are the ultimate roll casting machines, so it is no wonder that they are taking the fly fishing world by storm.

What makes a switch rod a switch rod? It really comes down to their length, which falls somewhere between 10 ½ and 11 ½ feet. Also, their cork handle extends below the reel for two-handed applications. These rods are longer than traditional single hand rods and shorter than spey rods. Being right in the middle, anglers are able to cross over into both realms if they so choose.

Fly rod manufacturers typically provide switch rods in the 5 – 8 weight range, but there are 4 weights available. Trout anglers tend to hang out with 4 -7 weights, depending on size of the fish and the size of the water. Salmon and steelhead anglers prefer rods sized between 6-8 weights.

Keep in mind that switch rods are larger than their single hand cousins. Normally, about 2 sizes larger - so a 5 weight switch rod is really comparable to a 7 weight singlehand rod of the same construction. In order to balance out a switch rod out with the right fly reel and single hand line, be thinking about two sizes up, generally speaking. For a complete rundown on fly lines for switch rods, check out Fly Lines for Switch Rods.

When would a switch rod come in handy? Well there are a number of scenarios, but let’s simply break down the advantages across different angler groups. Then we’ll finish up by talking about their disadvantages…

Fly Fishing Reels - A Buyer's Guide

Hatch Finatic

Yes, it’s true, fly reels can be just as expensive as the actual fly rod in hand. Certain reels can go upwards of a thousand dollars or more, but this sort of dollar outlay is rather luxurious. A more frequent price range for fly reels is between $60 – $600. What determines this price? Well it really comes down to the quality of materials used, the design and the size of the reel. The fly reel is an important part of the equation because it houses, and manages the actual fly line. Line comes in, line goes out – it is a continual process in fly fishing so anglers do need a well functioning reel to oversee this process. Whether you are stripping line out for a longer cast or trying to manipulate a presentation, line should peel off the reel smoothly without getting tangled. Also, let’s say that you hook a fish and it’s off and running… The fly reel must maintain tension and keep the line spinning off the fly spool in a somewhat, controlled fashion. Line management is key to landing fish and keeping you fishing efficiently. So what are the important considerations when choosing the right fly reel? Let’s go over them.

MATERIALS

Most fly reels on the market today are made from varying qualities of aluminum. Higher end models are machined from aircraft-grade stock, while lower end models are poured into a mold – resulting in a cast-construction. Keep in mind that although the price is right, cast aluminum is more liable to break than fully machined aluminum reels. Another important consideration is the finish on aluminum reels. Manufacturers speak of Annodizing or Allox Finishes. Most are either Type II or Type III finishes that create a protective layer to the surface of the metal. Annodizing helps to protect the reel from gouges or dings and fights corrosion which can be especially prevalent when fishing in salt water. Type II anodizing is more common than type III because it is cheaper and can be dyed with a broader range of colors. Type III is toughest, but usually only available in black or dark gray finishes.

Lines for Switch Rods - A Buyer's Guide

Switch rods and lines to use with them are quickly evolving. Since the time that this article was written many new lines have been developed that could be of great importance to switch rod users. One comes to mind is the New Rio Switch Chucker. The Switch Chucker is a full length line with the idea that it can do it all or most of it anyway..Its essentially a skagit line and you just add the tip to suite your current needs. Newly updated is the Skagit Short now called Skagit Max Short and a to compliment the new short skagit is the i-Short Skagit, a short intregrated intermediate sinking skagit head.

Like I said lots of new stuff for the switch rod angler. We are working with all the new offering and look forward to reporting back soon with our findings. Look for a new post about switch lines coming soon. This current post has been updated with all the current links and information contained within it is still very valid and useful. 

Finding the right line for switch rods (rods between the lengths of 10.5 – 11.5 feet) can be confusing. Let us try to clear a few things up by talking about the different types of applications that switch rods are used for.

Spey Fishing. These short rods provide a light, agile alternative when fishing small to medium sized rivers. Finally, lines now exist to give anglers a sound spey experience with rods of this size. Traditionally, spey rods have been used to cast lines to anadromous fish like Salmon and Steelhead. Anglers preferring to swing flies for these fish with switch rods should consider casting short spey heads, but there are a few choices here. If you want the capability of casting heavy sink-tips and weighted flies then you want a short Skagit line. Rio's version: Rio Skagit Max Short. Airflo's version: Airflo Skagit Switch. Both of these lines are very similar and like the regular Skagit lines, they perform best with some type of sink-tip attached to the front of the head. Their extreme weight forward nature allows them to turn over tips and heavy flies quite easily. People who wish to swing flies on the surface or mere inches below the surface can replace the sink tip and affix a dry tip to the head. Although this will work for dry line fishing, this combination is somewhat “clunky” when looking for a soft fly lay down on the water. Also, people using this setup will appreciate using a polyleader in place of a purely mono leader. So it is recommended that you attach a 10 foot polyleader to the end of the dry tip which will aid in rod-loading and line shooting.

Learn more about tips and polyleaders - Sink Tips, Polyleaders, Versileaders - A Buyer's Guide

Swing fishing with a sink-tip:

Head + Sink Tip + 4-5ft of mono leader. For example: (Airflo Skagit Switch + 10 Ft T-14 + 4-5ft of Maxima 12 lb)

Swing fishing with a dry tip:

Head + Dry Tip + 10ft poly leader+ 3-5 ft of mono leader. For example: (Rio Skagit Short + 10 ft medium Mow Float Tip + Airflo 10ft poly leader floating +3-5 ft of Maxima 12 lb.

Fly Fishing Float Tubes - A Buyer's Guide

If you like to fish stillwater you should seriously consider a float tube. No, they don’t go fast and you can’t tote your family along, but as far as single-person fly-fishing vessels are concerned, they are tough to beat. They are easy to carry, easy to inflate, comfortable, extremely functional from a fly fisher’s point of view and they help to open up all that water that you just couldn't reach before. Most tubes will carry you, your gear bag, your valuables and a small cooler. Not bad for fitting into a back pack!

Choosing the Right Float Tube

Like pontoon boats, the most important determinant of quality and performance depends on the materials used and the overall size of the float tube. Most tubes have internal bladders constructed of either Vinyl or Urethane. The outer shell that holds these bladders is a fabric material that will vary in durability from the top of the tubes to the bottoms. Typically the material on top is lighter gauge fabric than that of the shell material on the bottom of the tube. The durability is given a weight rating, typically between 200 – 600. Most tubes have an outer shell rating that is durable enough for average use. The main concern is what type of bladder is used.

Urethane bladders are far superior to Vinyl bladders. They are more likely to hold up and remain leak-free over time. Price is very indicative of what type of bladder is used. There are some tubes that do not use bladders. Tubes like the Outcast Trinity use a UCN (Urethane Coated Vinyl) shell to hold the air. They are not as durable, but they have drastic weight reduction as this particular tube weighs only 7 lbs! The type of valves is also a concern. Most valves are user friendly but some are more durable than others. Summit II valves are more durable than Boston valves. Leaks can occur at the valve but those tubes using Summit II valves are far less likely to do so.

The larger the tube diameter, the easier they are to maneuver. A longer, wider tube will be more stable and track better through the water. Carrying capacity also increases with overall tube size. But, those folks wishing to hike long distances with their tubes should seriously consider a tube’s packability and weight.

Outcast Float Tubes are all very comfortable. They utilize a U-shaped design that helps anglers cut through the water more efficiently. The seats are all positioned above the water’s surface which keeps people dry above the knee. Seats are either foam material or they are inflated. Tubes that have inflatable seats are easier to pack and they certainly bolster the comfort level.

All Outcast tubes come with adapters that coincide with their particular valve type. There are many pumps available on the market. Outcast has pumps, but we really love the line of K-Pumps that are built here in Oregon. Their streamlined design and functionality make them tops in our opinion.

If a leak does occur while you are out on the water Outcast has patch kits that are strong and user-friendly. Although, if no kit is on hand, a little duct tape can go a long way.

It should be mentioned that all Outcast Tubes have a 5 year warranty. Customers should contact Outcast for repairs and to see if it falls under warranty. Nylon bladders can typically be shipped out to consumers under warranty, however, Urethane bladders needing repair should be sent to Outcast for review before a full bladder replacement can be considered.

There are also numerous Float Tube Accessories available like rod holders and boat bags, backpack straps etc… Fins are also a necessity as your legs are the engine on these vessels.

Float Tubes 

Model	Size	Bladder	Shell	Weight	Capacity	Valve(s)	Seat	Warranty
Fish Cat 4 LCS Olive	44”x54”	12” Vinyl	420pc/500pvc Sewn	14 lbs	250 lbs	(2)Boston	Foam	5 year
Fish Cat 4 DLX Olive, Burnt Orange	44”x54	12” Vinyl	420pc/500pvc Sewn	14 lbs	250 lbs	(2)Boston (2) Summit Tube	Inflatable	5 year
Fat Cat LCS Gray/Orange	45”x64”	13” Urethane	420pc/500pvc Sewn	12 lbs	300 lbs	(1) Summit II	Foam	5 year
Trinity Navy	41”x54”	13” No Bladder	420 UCN Welded	7 lbs	300 lbs	(4) Tube Summit	Inflatable	5 year
Super Fat Cat LCS Gray/Orange, Olive/Tan	45”x64”	13” Urethane	420pc/500pvc Sewn	12 lbs	300 lbs	(1) Summit II (2) Summit Tube	Inflatable	5 year
Prowler Navy	50”x64”	13 ½ " Urethane	600pc/500pvc Sewn	16 lbs	325 lbs	(3) Summit II	Inflatable	5 year

*PC – Pac Cloth **PVC – Poly Vinyl Chloride *** UCN – Urethane Coated Nylon

Click Outcast Float Tubes to see our full line of options in further detail


Gorge Fly Shop Team
541.386.6977

Fly Fishing Pontoon Boats - Buyer's Guide

"Fly Fish the World with Us"

Fly Fishing Pontoon Boats - A Buyer's Guide

Floating atop the surface of a lake or a river is a beautiful thing. Not only is it an enjoyable way to travel, but you may also experience places that would otherwise be impossible to reach. For anglers around the globe, the benefits of pontoon boats have become quite clear. They help to bring you where the fish are -or through those special landscapes that your own two feet, cannot.

Dan Gordon - Gorge Fly Shop

New color for 2017 Stealth Pro

For those of you interested in purchasing a pontoon boat, the three most important things to consider are: Durability, Function and Your Budget.

Durability

As is the case with most products, price does depend on the quality of materials. For pontoon boats the greatest concern is the type of bladders used. Most pontoons have an outer shell that is made of a pliable, PVC material. This stuff is fairly durable and ranges from a 500 – 1800 rating (which is determined by the weight of the material). Inside these shells are the actual bladders that hold the air. There are three different types of bladders found on the market today.

The first is vinyl. Vinyl is the least expensive material and it is also more liable to leak over time. Basically, vinyl does not have a high degree of elasticity so that as the material expands, it has a tendency to keep stretching without contracting back to its original form. As time goes on, this material loses its integrity putting it at a greater danger for pin holes and leaks due to trauma.

The best, but most expensive, bladders are Urethane. If you are willing to drop the dough, boats that utilize Urethane are the most dependable and the most likely to hold up over long periods of time. This is why companies like Outcast can afford to put a 10 year warranty on their Urethane – bladder boats. This material is highly elastic and if a leak does occur, it is the easiest material to patch while on the water. Simply put, Urethane bladders are far more durable than Vinyl.

The third type of bladder is a Vinyl/Urethane blend. This is the middle price point, although there are not many pontoons out there that have this combination. The brunt of the bladder is Vinyl with a Urethane coating. As is the case with vinyl, it works but this blended material offers far less durability than a purely Urethane bladder.
It is nice to have a stout PVC shell for these bladders, but truth be told, even the low rated shells are fairly durable. Typically, boats that have Urethane bladders will also have more durable covers. Also of concern is how these outer shells are put together. Welded seams are stronger than sewn seams, however, there are cases where low-cost boats do utilize welded seams. If it is a low priced boat, our recommendation is to go with sewn seams because there are some poorly crafted, welded seams out there on low-priced models.

Frames for pontoon boats are built from both steel and aluminum. Steel is stronger, but definitely adds more weight. Many high quality boats utilize rust-proof aluminum frames as a fine balance for durability and functionality.

The added components like seats, oars etc… are fairly constant across many stock models of boats. A word of caution however: when looking at the overall quality of the boat, do not be swayed by the type of components that are added on as opposed to the quality of the pontoons. Components are a pretty cost-effective way for companies to dress up their vessels and shouldn't be the overwhelming determinant of value.

Steve Turner Photography

Functionality

This is where you must first ask yourself a few questions:

• In what type of water will you be using the boat?
• How many people do you wish it to hold?
• How portable do you need the boat to be?
• Storage capacity

Multi-day floats

Water types

Lakes-

For most lake anglers, a basic 8-9 foot boat should do the job. Although quality tubes definitely add to the life of the boat, one may get away with vinyl pontoons here. Tube diameters of 16” are pretty typical on the lakes. Higher tube diameters bolster a boat’s weight capacity as well as improve the boat’s agility. However, operating tall-tubed boats on a lake can be difficult when the wind is blowing. Light boats in the 8 – 9 foot range can be controlled with fins, as opposed to oars. We call this “kicking” and this can be very effective when you want to maneuver and fish at the same time. Trolling along a shoreline is a fine example “kicking”. But, once you get above the 10 foot length, kicking is not really a viable option. There are a series of boats out there that use four total pontoons. The Outcast Pac 9000 has two pontoons per side which allows it to keep pontoon height to a minimal, right around 10 inches. These low-profile boats perform very well in the wind and when running over shallow gravel bars. They are not as agile, however, so they take a little more strength to maneuver.

Gentle Streams-

8-9 foot boats are also useful tools for floating small or gentle streams. Many boats in this size class have “rocker” shaped pontoons, which means that the tubes curve up in a rounded-fashion in both the front and back of the boat. This essentially leaves less surface area on the water making them more agile. Floaters using these rocker boats can spin the boat very quickly. The downside here is that this style is less stable and far less able to track on a straight line when running rivers or rowing across a lake. You will be “rocking” back and forth with each oar stroke. Keep in mind that companies save money with these rocker styles because there is essentially less material involved. One might still “kick” a boat this size on only slow moving rivers. But we do not recommend this, as it can be very dangerous in moving water.

Whitewater-

People needing whitewater capabilities should think about pontoons no shorter than 10 feet in length. Generally speaking-for running rapids, the longer the pontoon, the better they track through rapids. More length allows the boat to span across holes and wave trains. Also, thicker tube diameters are needed here to keep you and your gear afloat and more maneuverable. We would recommend 18 inch – diameter tubes and above for floating rivers with any amount of serious whitewater. Also, the total width of the boat says a lot about a boat’s over all stability. It should be mentioned here that personal skill level is the most important aspect for running whitewater. Beginner oarsmen really have no business attempting dangerous water in any size boat. When I mention 10 feet and 18 inch tubes this is really meant for advanced river runners. The less your own personal skill level, then the longer your boat should be. Even for single occupants, a 12 foot pontoon is a more viable rig to use when running serious white water. Pontoon boats are made in lengths up to 20 feet long. Rowing these multi-person vessels are tougher to move around, but they are far safer when plowing through serious rapids. Experience allows people to drop down in over all boat size.

How many people?

People wishing to bring another occupant, should have their eyes on at least a 12 foot boat with 18 inch and above diameter pontoons. Boats of this size will give you adequate space and weight capacity for you and your gear. Standing and fishing from a boat this size is also an option if there is a stout, upright frame and it is properly balanced. For three total people, pontoons or rafts of at least 14 feet in length should be the shortest boat considered.

Steve Turner Photography

Portability-

Pontoon boats, for the most part, are very portable. But to fairly address this, one must look at the overall size and weight of the boat as well as the type of frame. If you are traveling to a body of water with the boat in pieces, most vessels should break down and fit into a compact car. To get a solid feel for size, look at the number of pieces involved in making up the frame. Frames that click together with holes and pins will go together quickly. Frames that are bolted together will take more time. It is much easier to leave these pontoon boats whole and most will fit nicely on top of one’s car or in the bed of a pickup. Most boats up to 10 feet in length are very manageable for one person to throw up on the car roof. 11 and 12 footers are doable, if you’re exceptionally rugged. 12 foot pontoons can be pulled up onto a trailer at an honest boat ramp by one person, however you certainly lose options when you get into these longer lengths. The beauty of small pontoons is you can drop them in and pull them out in some fairly obscure places. If you need to hike with your pontoon, you will need a small boat and a light, packable frame. Aluminum frames are key to keeping your load light.

Storage Capacity and Anchor System-

Okay, it is pretty easy to read the specs and see how much weight a boat can handle. But an often overlooked aspect is how user-friendly a particular storage system actually is. One thing to look for is what type of anchor system the boat has. Although this seems off-topic, this aspect is crucial to how the storage racks are laid out. Boats that have an anchor system that runs through the frame (Not Over The Top!) have far superior storage systems. When this is the case, storage racks are placed above the pontoons. Some boats that have anchor lines that run over the top of the frame, have their storage racks resting down closer to the water, between the pontoons. When this is true, there is less storage space and it is more difficult to reach your gear. Essentially, the anchor rope gets in the way of your packing scheme - also hindering smooth anchor operation.

You get what you pay for-

Here at the Gorge Fly Shop, we have dealt with Outcast Boats for years and we are very happy with their quality, service and range of options. However, we do recommend two basic strategies when it comes to pontoon boat shopping. If you are a fair weather angler needing very little whitewater capabilities then spend the least amount of money possible. A solid choice here would be the Fish Cat Streamer XL – IR. If you need a higher quality boat that has a broader range of options, then go all the way to the top. Do not spend your money on a middle of the road option. Go low or go high. Remember, the real quality of a boat is in the bladders, what type of seams hold the shell together, and the type of frame and storage layout. When you make the jump from the Fish Cat series to the Pac Series there is a considerable jump in price, but it is well represented by it’s inherent quality. As far as a one-man, do-it-all, high quality boat is concerned, you should really be looking at the Pac1000FS. But of course, you may want bigger, or you may want smaller depending on your style.

Frameless Boats-

While Officially not a pontoon, boats like the new Outcast OSG Commander, Outcast Stealth Pro and the Fishcat Scout do not have a frame and are extremely light and pack-able making them the most recent trend in inflatables. A great advantage to these boats is the pack-ability. These can be stowed in a large duffel, checked as baggage, stored in a cars trunk and just as easily be carried in to where they will be used. Once inflated they become a true river boat with outstanding capabilities. All three designs use two piece oars that quickly connect to the boat and row just like a pontoon. This gives a considerable advantage over other craft such as kayaks and canoes. Also with the open design all three allow for use with kick fins making them a viable option for lakes and still water as well.

Outcast Stealth Pro

Below is table of the Outcast pontoon boats and some of the important characteristics of each:

Model	Size	Airecell	Shell	Frame	Weight	capacity	warranty
Fishcat Streamer XL-IR	54”x 8’	16” vinyl	1000 PVC sewn	6 pc - Steel	63 lbs	300 lbs	5 year
Fishcat 9 IR	54”x 9’	16” vinyl	1000 PVC sewn	6 pc- Steel	65 lbs	375 lbs	5 year
Fishcat Panther	60”x 9’	10 vinyl	1000 PVC weld	6 pc Alum	67 lbs	400 lbs	5 year
Fishcat 10 IR Standup	56”x 10’	17” vinyl	1000 PVC sewn	12 pc Steel	91 lbs	450 lbs	5 year
Pac 800	54”x8’	16” urethane	1100 PVC Welded	4 pc Alum	52 lbs	300 lbs	10 year
Pac 900	54”x 9’	16” urethane	1100 PVC Welded	4 pc Alum	57 lbs	400 lbs	10 year
Pac 1000	54”x 10’	18” urethane	1100 PVC Welded	4 pc Alum	62 lbs	500 lbs	10 year
Pac 1200	65”x 13’	20” urethane	1670 PVC Welded	11 pc Alum	144 lbs	750 lbs	10 year
Pac 1300	68”x 13’	19” urethane	1670 PVC Welded	NRS Frame	225 lbs	1050 lbs	10 year
Pac 1400	72”x 14’	19.25 urethane	1670 PVC Welded	NRS Frame	236 lbs	1150 lbs	10 year
Fishcat 13	65”x 13’	20” vinyl	1000 PVC sewn	11 pc Alum	170 lbs	750 lbs	5 year
OSG Commander	46”x 10’	11” urethane	1000 PVC Welded	Frame-Less	35 lbs	450 lbs	5 year
Stealth Pro	57”x 8’	16.25” Urethane	1000 PVC Welded	Frame-Less	35 lbs	450 lbs	5 year
Fishcat Scout	55”x 7’	16.25” Vinyl	1000 PVC Welded	Frame-Less	35 lbs	400 lbs	5 year

For a more complete look, click Pontoon Boats

More Pontoon Articles:

Outcast Stealth Pro Frame-Less Pontoon Boat Review

Outcast Stealth Pro Vs. the Competition

Outcast Commander vs. Outcast Pac 800

K-Pumps - Best for Float Tubes, Pontoons and Rafts


Gorge Fly Shop Team

"Fly Fish the World with Us"