John's Gift Guide: 5 Picks I Actually Fish (2025/2026)

It’s easy to talk about the things you love, and every item in this lineup has earned a permanent spot in my own kit. From high-octane saltwater rods to smooth, reliable reels, minimalist packs, bomber flats boots, and purpose-built fly lines, these are the pieces of gear I actually fish, trust, and recommend, no fluff, just honest truth.

1) Winston Air 2 Max 

"Fast Action, Easy Casting, Super High Performance"

"The new standard of what a saltwater rod should feel like. The best of both worlds, flex and feel with quick tip recovery equaling high line speed and accuracy. Easily place your fly accurately on shorter cast and yet, have the power to pick up for a quick re-cast with distance if necessary. Casting for distance is no problem, the Air 2 Max performs cast of 70 - 80' with nearly no effort. Has plenty of reserve power for greater distances and casting in windy conditions where high line speed is a must. Whether you're blind casting trying to cover as much water as possible or if you are tactfully sight fishing and only cast a dozen time in a day, the Air 2 Max will keep you fresh and ready to fish the next day."

NOTE: the Air 2 Max 6wt is an OUTSTANDING streamer rod!

Why It's Gift Worthy:

• Winston Flex & Feel in a true Saltwater taper.
• Rods range from 6wt (streamer, light saltwater) to 12 (big guns).
• Light in hand and an absolute pleasure to cast.

Who's it for: Any Streamer Junkie (6 or 7wt) to the tournament Silver Kings (Tarpon) fisherman and anything in between. There's an appropriate rod for what you love to fish for.

Purchase Now

2) Galvan Grip G-8

"Exceptionally Made, Fully Sealed Drag, Little Maintenance, Great Price."

"Not a "New" reel, but a great reel. Value for the money is refreshing. When it comes to saltwater reels specifically, quality and prices can vary. You could lose your mind buying a saltwater reel. They can be as expensive as your rod. The Galvan Grip combines very high quality with very nice price point for what you get. For me, my reel is a tool and it needs to do its job. The Galvan Grip has never let me down. The silky smooth sealed drag is powerful to boot. Big fish, whether on the flats or your favorite steelhead or salmon stream, require a smooth drag system. I also love the XL Drag knob for additional torque when needed and it just makes it easier to find the handle in the heat of the battle."

Why It's Gift Worthy:

• Made in the U.S.A. - Galvan's long track record of producing proven products.
• Powerful, Smooth Sealed Drag System.
• Large Arbor Spool Design Allows for greater line pickup.
• XL Handle for ease of finding and additional torque when needed.

Who's it for: BIG DREAMS shouldn't necessarily come with BIG PRICE TAGS. Anyone in need of a quality reel that won't empty their savings account is a prime candidate for a Galvan Grip reel. A lot to love here!

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3) Fishpond Thunderhead Submersible Lumbar - Small

"Ultimate Waterproof Hip Pack, Light & Compact, Built for Comfort."

"If you're like me, the bigger the pack the more I tend to carry, even if I don't need it. I bought a smaller hip pack for "Force" me to downsize and carry on the essential items for the moment. The Fishpond Thunderhead Submersible Lumbar Small pack has been "Perfect" for me. I added the Fishpond Water Bottle holder to the belt to keep me hydrated, which is important and absolutely necessary! I can fit several fly boxes, an assortment of leaders and tippet material, small tube of sunscreen, lip balm, sun glasses cleaner, fly line cleaner, my cell phone, and more in this little gem. By thinking and condensing and only taking the absolute essentials with me I have been able to cut the weight of my pack considerably. This is a great thing when you are on the flats all day."

Why It's Gift Worthy:

• 100% Waterproof with its self-healing TRU-Zip Zipper. You can't squeeze the air out of the pack when it's fully zipped!
• Accessory attachment points allowing you to "Add On".  Think, Water Bottle Holder, Pliers, Tippet Holders...
• Light padded shoulder strap with tool attachment points.

Who's it for: Anyone fishing the flats anywhere in the world. It's for the minimalist fisherman who only wants to carry the essentials.

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4) Korkers Salt Sneaker Wading Boot

"Ultimate Comfort, Quick Drying, Durable."

The Korkers Salt Sneaker has been a very popular flats boot since it was introduced late 2024 early 2025 and in it's short history has proven itself. A very comfortable boot that you can easily spend all day in. It's grippy traction is also a plus. Made of  Abrasion Resistant and Hydrophobic materials that are durable and quick to dry. Probably the most comfortable flats boot on the market today.

Why It's Gift Worthy:

• Amazing Comfort
• Quick Drying to help prevent spread of invasive species
• Durable

Who's it for: The flats aficionado that travels the world or the first time flats fisher. Although I have not yet tried them while carp fishing, my expectations are that they would work well unless your in thick mud.

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5) Scientific Anglers Amplitude Smooth Bonefish Plus

"Extended Head Length, Half Size Heavy, Cast Long Leaders With Ease."

Fishing the flats for Bonefish is challenging. You're almost always dealing with some kind of wind or any number of other variants. Having a line half sized heavier allows you to cast better in those windy conditions. It's very important to present your fly well, especially over spooky fish. Imagine if you will, you're on a flat, you see some Bones working your way, the wind is howling and you have one shot to cast well in front of them so as not to spook them. The wind is coming right at you off your strong hand side, your cast will most likely be a cack handed one. To keep your fly on target, you'll need a line that loads your rod quickly and cast better in the wind.  You'll need to have tight loops to help penetrate that wind. A good double haul is helpful and comes into play as well to help with your line speed. Success, you got the job done and the Bonefish ate. Fish on! Anyone who has ever fished a flat for Bones in windy conditions understands the value of a intentionally designed fly line to help the angler seize the moment. That combined with a good cast, mission accomplished.

Why It's Gift Worthy:

• Intentionally designed with a long head for use with longer leaders, yet delivers the fly delicately.
• Features AST Plus Slickness Additive which increases shooting ability and makes the line more durable.
• Designed specifically for tropical situations with a stiff core for castability.

Who's it for: Anyone heading to flats where Bonefish like to feed. Cast with confidence. Although specifically designed for tropical Bonefish, I believe that it would work well in warmer climates for species like carp.

Purchase Now

"It's easy to talk about the things you love. Every product listed below is in my personal arsenal. I use them and I love them. No fluff, just honest truth." - John

"The Gorge"

Gorge Fly Shop Team - 541.386.6977

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BUYERS GUIDE to WADERS:

Zippered waders, such as the Simms G4Z (above) or the Grunden's Boundry Z, make getting in and out easy. Equaly as important when you really gotta go, you can get the job done quick! 

Disclaimer:  This in no way, is an in depth outline or review of waders available on the market today.  This is just a short write up of a few of the things I really like about the waders included.  If you have any questions feel free to call us at the Gorge Fly Shop at 541-386-6977 and we can help you get answers.

Waders, waders, waders.  When was the last time you bought yourself a brand spankin new pair of waders?  I mean, the way the water beads up on the Gore-Tex and glistens in the sunlight as it runs down your leg, oh my goodness.  There certainly are no shortages of wader blog post or articles (whatever you want to call them) there's probably at least two from every fly shop across the country if not more, and that's okay.

That being said, somebody, somewhere, is in the market or is in the process of researching options and will be in the market.  A major factor in today's world are reviews.  Nearly every customer I talk to that is getting into their first set of waders, a rod, a reel etc...speak of all the reviews they've read about that specific item.  And with good reason, to a point.  What do I mean by this?  Well, a portion of those folks have done the research and read all the reviews and because of it are finding it even harder to make a decision.  Too much information.  I totally understand reading reviews, I do it myself and because equipment isn't cheap, we all want to make a solid choice for the amount of money we will be spending.

When considering all aspects of purchasing fishing equipment, you might think waders wouldn't be at the top of the list as an exciting purchase.  However ask anyone old enough to have fished in neoprene  or the earlier more rigid waders and you would find out quick, that Gore-Tex waders where a BIG DEAL.  I'm not saying Gore-Tex waders were an immediate hit, because they were'nt, it took a few years and some consumer education before they started dominating the wader market.

I can confirm that waders have come a long ways.  I still remember romping around the river banks in my old, tight, stanky, non-breathable, Hodgman neoprene waders.  By the way, the very first pair of manufactured waders were made in the 1838 by a company called Hodgman.  Neoprene was great for winter fishing but not so much during the summer.  We didn't know any better, at least I didn't, and because of that, I thought they were great at the time.  Honestly in the summer months as a kid and early adulthood, I mostly wet waded in the refreshingly cold water to cool off.

But when I got my hands on my very first pair of Gore-Tex waders, it was gamechanging for me.  Compared to neoprene, the Gore-Tex waders were more comfortable overall and I could layer appropriately underneath to suit the current weather forcast.

Today, we're blessed with a number of different materials that make waders breathable, lighter, durable and simply put, much more comfortable.  Materials, such as Gore-Tex, Toray and Ultra-Dense Poly-Nylon to name a few have made this possible, all while providing different price points for the consumer.

For the sake of keeping this short, I won't be covering in full detail the science behind the materials offered today that wader manufactuer's use.  If you're really interested in that you can do a quick Google search and find plenty of intel.

GORE-TEX WADERS:

The very first pair of waders made with Gore-Tex came after K.C. Walsh acquired Simms Fishing Products back in 1993.  This one move became one of the most significant advancements in the world of fishing.  Neoprene has become a relic for the most part.  I can't remember the last time I saw a pair of neoprene waders out on the river unless it was during the winter months.

Read more on the history Simms and the Gore-Tex Waders? Click link below.

• Simms Gore-Tex Waders - from Ross Purnell | Fly Fisherman Magazine 01.04.2024

      

Simms G4Z Zippered and G3 Guide Waders

Simms G4Z (Zippered) - $999.95:

The most technically advanced pair of waders offered by Simms is made with a 4 layer Gore-Tex Pro lower section and a 3 layer Gore-Tex Pro upper section.  The extra layer in the lower portion of the waders provide a bit more durablilty in the high use ares.  The G4Z also come with a fully waterproof YKK Aquaseal Center Front Zipper.

In addion to being the most advanced wader that Simms has made to date, the G4Z zippered wader is much easier to get in and out of, and (capt. Obvious here) when you need to releave yourself, the zipper is amazing.  Especially if you've waited till the last minute because you wanted to finish swinging that sweet run you were in.  The newest model of the G4Z waders have a butter smooth feel to them, the fabric is softer than the first generation of G4Z which I have.  So nice and less rigid, making them amazingly comfortable.

The new Spacer Mesh Suspender system is also very breathable and comfortable and I love the adjustment strap, it's way easier to adjust if needed in the latest model and because I carry my phone everywhere I go, I highly appreciate the two waterproof inside pockets as well!  No more carrying my phone in a zip lock bag.

Waterproof inside pockets of the Simms G4Z wader are icing on the cake.

• Click Here for more on Simms G4Z waders:

Simms G3 Guide Wader - $699.95:

There are other waders made with Gore-Tex that don't have the zippered feature for instance the Simms G3 Guide waders.  Which I wore for a long time, until upgrading to my first pair of first generation G4Z waders.  I would be willing to bet that G3 Guide waders are Simms best selling wader of all times. Very durable, comfortable and at a decent price for a Gore-Tex wader.  What I liked about the G3 Guide wader was the extra layering in the rear end section of the waders.  At the time I wore the G3's I did a ton of rowing and I believe it gave me an extra layer of durability.

Simms G3 Guide Wader

• Click Here for more on Simms G3 Guide Waders:

Grunden's Boundry Zip (Zippered) - $899.95 and Boundry Wader - $599.99

When you think of the name Grundens you typically go straight to offshore or coastal fishing.  They have made a strong name for themselves in the commercial fishing industry.  Well, they recently have created a full line of wading products and I must say, having the Grunden's Boundry Zip waders for just over a year now, I am very pleased with them.

Grunden's Boundry Zip and Boundry Waders made with Gore-Tex.

Made of Gore-Tex, they are giving Simms a little bit of competition.  The first thing I noticed when putting on my Grundens Boundry Zip waders is that in the crotch area I had more room than I do with my older first generation Simms G4Z waders.  I am tall at 6'5" and I have long legs and a short torso.  In comparison to my Simms G4Z waders, I have to give the Grundens a slight edge on the comfort of the crotch area because they do have a bit more room.  I mean the Simms fit me, but when I sit or kneel down, the crotch part reminds me that it's there, where as the Grundens, I have a tad more room, hence the slight edge for comfort in my case.  Time will tell, but Grunden's has done a pretty good job with their Gore-Tex wader so far.  They are committed in producing a quality product for the consumer.

• Click Here for more on Grunden's Boundry Zip waders.

• Click Here for more on Grunden's Boundry waders:

TORAY WADERS:

Simms FreestoneZ (Zippered) - $479.95 and the Freestone Waders - $379.95:

The Simms Freestone series wader made with Toray is probably the best bang for your buck.  The Freestone wader, made with durable and breathable Toray Quadralam 4-layer upper and lower is an excellent wader for the money. Comes in two color options, Smoke and Midnight, as shown below.

Simms FreestoneZ and Freestone Wader - Midnight

Toray is a material that was developed in Japan in the 1920's and today is used in a wide range of outdoor gear.  It's a synthetic/acrylic based material, in which Nylon is the most well know.  It is manufactuered much like Gore-Tex in that it uses multiple layers and sealed seems.  When it comes to durablity Gore-Tex has the edge but Toray has proven to be a great material at a friendlier price.

• Ckick Here for more on Simms Freestone Z waders:

• Click Here for more on Simms Freestone waders:

OTHER MATERIALS:

Grundens Vector Waders - $499.99:

Grundens Vector wader made with Ultra-Dense Poly-Nylong Outer Fabric and 4-layer Bi-Component Puncture Resistant Laminate providing 30K Waterproof Submerged rating, gives you a durable wader for a great price.  At first glance they look like a zippered wader, however the front chest zipper is for access to the chest pocket, not a full on open zippered wader.

Charlie in his Grundens Vector Waders

I can honestly say that I haven't seen a single negative review on the Grunden's Vector waders, or any of Grunden's wadets, since they hit the river banks.  This is a great thing, that combined with the price point, what'ss not to love about the Vectors?

• Click Here for more on Grundens Vector waders:

Grunden's Bedrock Waders - $349.99:

Charlie in his Grundens Bedrock Waders

Grunden's Bedrock waders boast a 30K+ submerged waderproof rating.  If that sounds like a foreign language to you, don't worry, it means that it is extremely waterproof.  This is mainly accomplished with it's Ultra-Dense 100% Nylon Outer shell and a durable 4-layer puncture resistent lamination finish.

Bedrock Front Zippered Pocket for easy access!

Additionally the features I like about the Bedrock waders is the easy access zippered pockets in the chest as well as the water resistent zippered hand warming pockets.  When fishing in the winter, having pockets lined to help keep your hands warm is like "peanut butter...on jelly...on gold!" (credit: Snoop Dog).  Being able to keep your hands dry and warm is essential to making it through a cold winters day. I often put hand warmers inside those pockets to help in colder conditions. I will also carry a few rags, to help keep my hands dry if I have to release a fish.  Keeping your hands dry is critical to staying warm for longer periods of time.

A SIDE NOTE - HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR WADERS:

Simms GORE-TEX or TORAY Wader Care:

1. Simms waders are all built from a durable breathable fabric.  Whether that is Gore-Tex or Toray, the care that should be taken is the same.
2. Waders should be dried after each use, both inside and out.  Simms understands that certain situations do not allow for the time to fully dry between uses.  It is the expectation that this circumstance will contribute to a potential shorter lifespan.
3. Breathable fabrics are porous in nature and can collect dirt, and oils from the skin and other environmental substances.  Regular cleaning of your waders is a key contributor to their lifespan.
4. Depending on the amount of days used, annual, bi-annual or tri-annual washing is recommended.
5. Exposure to sal water or salt air requires special care:  The waders must be rinsed thoroughly with fresh water and dried after each use.

Grunden's Gore-Tex Wader Care:

1. Hand wash cold water.
2. Do not use bleach.
3. Do not use fabric softeners.
4. Do not use stain removers.
5. Do not dry clean.
6. Do not iron.
7. Air Dry only.
8. Store in a cool, dry place.
9. Remove all items from pockets before washing.

Grunden's Non Gore-Tex Wader Care:

1. Machine wash at 40 degrees Celcius with mild detergent.
2. Wash with like colors.
3. Tumble Dry Low.
4. Do not iron.
5. Do not dry clean.
6. Do not use Powder Detergent, Fabric Softeners or Bleach.

Final thoughts:

Now is a great time to get a pair of waders if you're in the market.  You have choices, but if you're still confused because of all the choices and trying to decide which is best for your needs, we are here to help you make an educated decision.  

Feel free to call us at Gorge Fly Shop 541-386-6977 or visit our website at gorgeflyshop.com.

Thanks for taking the time and reading this, hope it helps in some way.

Gorge Fly Shop Team

John G.

"The Gorge"

Gorge Fly Shop Team - 541.386.6977

GorgeFlyShop.com  |  Join our Team |  Contact Us

"Fly Fish the World with Us"

BUYER'S GUIDE to MODERN SKAGIT HEADS:

Introduced in 2024, RIO'S Multi-Density Skagit Pickpocket. (photo by Callum Brock)

"Skagit lines were born out of necessity. In the late 90's, a few elite Northwest anglers realized the effectiveness or presenting very large flies on heavy sink tips for steelhead." - Tom Larimer, Hatch Magazines "Skagit Heads Explained" Jan 12th, 2015.

Reflecting on how far Skagit casting and the designs of Skagit lines has come, I immediately think of those who helped start it all.  Skagit guru's such as: Ed Ward, Mike McCune, Scott O'Donnell, Scott Howell, Jerry French, George Cook, Tom Larimer, to name a few.

Through their innovative thinking, they've literally changed the way folks approach steelhead and salmon fly fishing today with a two handed rod.  How popular has it become? So much so, that it dominates shop conversations with customers and it's the go to technique on the banks of favorite steelhead and salmon rivers everywhere.  I can honestly say that I rarely have a conversation with a customer who is seeking single hand fly rod advice for steelhead or salmon anymore.

I also rarely ever see someone fishing a single handed fly rod for steelhead or salmon anymore with the exception of nymph fishing, particularly when wade fishing.  Most folks fishing indicators and nymphs, especially from a boat, will fish the pocket water in-between the swing runs.  Even in the trout fly fishing world we are seeing more and more folks fishing with two handed "Trout Spey" rods and for good reason.  With this popularity, the demand for shorter compact Skagit heads has grown.  

I also reflect to the first time I saw a fly fisherman fishing a two handed spey rod on my home river.  He was waist deep in the run using a 15' 9 or10wt rod, beautifully and smoothly casting it across the entire run with little to no effort.  He knew what he was doing.  As I approached him in my drift boat, curiously, I asked what rod he was using.  He was gracious enough to spend a short time giving me the low down, the rod and the technique even though I was interrupting his groove.  It's been long enough that I don't remember the details of his rod and all, but I do remember the length of the rod and the line he was using.  He even let me hold the rod for reference.  It was long, heavy, and to me, awkward to say the least.  I'd never held a two handed spey rod before.

Being honest, I thought he was out of his mind crazy for using such a massive, heavy rod for a mere 6 to 12 pound steelhead.  To me it was way overkill and I thought to myself ..."you'll never catch me fishing with one of these for the average steelhead we catch around here."  In addition to that, the length of rod and the line he was using, a long belly line, severely restricted the water he could fish.  The amount of space he needed to create the "D" loop and cast that long rod with the long belly line was significant.

On the other hand, he was literally fishing the entire run and reaching water that a single hand fly rod fisherman simply couldn't reach.  You would never use that rod in a tight quarters situation.  Well, how the times have changed and here we are. Today, I can nearly fish anywhere with a two handed rod. Shorter lighter rods paired with shorter heads allow us to fish even the tightest of spots.  Basically, it's the way I fish 99.9% of the time now for steelhead and more and more for trout with today's "Trout Spey" rods.

MODERN SKAGIT HEADS:

Modern Skagit heads of today are more specialized and versatile than ever.  Like an assortment of golf clubs in your bag, so is the assortment of Skagit heads that I carry in my gear bag.  Every Spey or Switch rod that I own, has it's own labeled gallon sized Ziploc bag or head wallet that will hold all the different heads for that particular rod.  I will carry this Ziploc bag or wallet in the chest of my waders and this allows me to change heads in a few of minutes and be back to fishing. It's awesome!  What's more awesome is that an assortment of Skagit heads for any given rod allows me to fish runs more effectively than ever before.

Full Length Floating Skagit Heads:  SA Skagit, Airflo Driver,

RIO Elite Skagit Max Launch.

FULL LENGTH FULL FLOATERS:

Back when Skagit heads were being introduced , traditionally they were about 22' to 26' depending on their grain weight.  Today they have become a bit shorter and now average 23' to 25' in length.  

Links to the most popular full length Skagit Floating heads (not necessarily in order):

• Airflo Skagit Driver: Airflo-Skagit-Driver
• RIO Elite Skagit Max Launch: RIO-Elite-Skagit-Max-Launch
• Scientific Anglers Skagit Floating: Scientific-Anglers-Skagit

Shop All Skagit Heads

Short Floating Skagit Heads:  Airflo Skagit Scout, RIO Elite Skagit Max Power,

SA Skagit Short, OPST Commando

SHORT FULL FLOATERS:

With the development of "Switch" rods (basically anything 12' or less) came the need for shorter Skagit heads In addition to the traditional Skagit Heads, when the first "Switch" or "Short Skagit" heads were developed, they had an average length of 19'6" to 20'6" in length. Today these "Short" Skagit heads are as short as 12' like the ever popular OPST Commando 150 grain, head and typically are no longer than 20'.

These Shorter Skagit heads are ideal for shorter single hand or two handed switch rods.  That doesn't mean you can use them on a longer 13' or 13'6" rod because you can.  You just have to be careful when fishing a shorter head on a longer rod because the opportunity to blow your anchor increases if you don't slow your stroke down and chill a bit.

Links to the most popular SHORT Skagit Floating heads (not necessarily in order):

• Airflo Skagit Scout:  Airflo-Skagit-Scout
  
• RIO Elite Skagit Max Power:  RIO-Elite-Skagit-Mini-Max-Power
• Scientific Anglers Skagit Short:  Scientific-Anglers-Skagit-Short
• OPST Commando Head:  OPST-Skagit-Commando-Head

Shop All Skagit Heads

INTERMEDIATE SKAGIT:

The first Intermediate Skagit Heads, that I know of, were created by Tom Larimer and Steve Rajeff out of the idea of having a Skagit head that could get below surface currents and slow the swing way down.  To this day, I still use the Skagit Compact Intermediate heads that I got when they first came out. They have since been discontinued, paving the way for the newer Airflo Skagit F.I.S.T. heads.

"A few years ago, I came up with the idea of building an intermediate sinking Skagit head after fishing with my old guide friends in the Great Lakes. Because of the complex surface currents in some of the larger "Third Coast" rivers, a traditional floating Skagit would get surfed around, not allowing for a smooth swing. In addition to tricky currents, Great Lakes rivers can be extremely cold from late October through February -- prime time for swinging flies. A slow, deep swing is often necessary to coax a steelhead to the fly. Airflo distributor Tim Rajeff and I developed a number of prototypes that my Midwest friends helped us test and which eventually became the Airflo Skagit Compact Intermediate." - Tom Larimer, from Hatch Magazines "Skagit Heads Explained" Jan 12th, 2015

That first Skagit Compact Int. head I used, was and still is, a staple for me when it comes to those runs where I just can't get the swing right.  It truly does get you below the conflicting surface currents and slows your swing down considerably.  You can really feel the connection to the fly.  These original Skagit Compact Int. heads are no longer available since they have been discontinued.

Today, most Skagit sinking heads have graduated from just an intermediate to now what is called 
Multi-Density which basically means there is a seamless blend of three different densities ensuring a smooth transition of energy while turning over level or tapered sinking tips all the while giving you great control for depth during your swing.  It's a beautiful thing!

MULTI DENSITY:

There has been a generous amount of time dedicated to taking that idea and making it even better with now the Multi-Density heads.  Because of that, I would say this area of Skagit heads has had the most development in recent years.  Now with all thee different Skagit heads, it seems like things are getting more confusing and difficult to choose from, BUT, how sweet is the versatility to pretty much fish any run you come across with confidence in knowing that you fished it well.  

Airflo Skagit Compact F.I.S.T. 450-720gr:

20.5' to 23.5' depending on grain weight.

• F/I/S.T - Floating, Intermediate, Sink 3ips Tip

Shop Airflo Skagit Compact F.I.S.T

RIO Elite Gamechanger Body, 400-725gr  - 23' to 25' depending on grain weight:

• F/H/I - Floating, Hover, Intermediate
• F/I/S3 - Floating, Intermediate, Sink 3ips
• F/S3/S5 - Floating, Sink 3ips, Sink 5ips
• I/S2/S3 - Intermediate, Sink 2ips, Sink 3ips
• S3/S5/S7 - Sink 3ips, Sink 5ips, Sink 7ips

Shop RIO Elite Skagit Gamechanger Body NEW FOR 2024

RIO Elite Skagit Pickpocket, 475-600gr - Short Skagit head 20' no matter the grain weight:

• F/I/S3 - Floating, Intermediate, Sink 3ips
• S3/S5/S7 - Sink 3ips, Sink 5ips, Sink 7ips

Shop RIO Elite Skagit Pickpocket NEW FOR 2024

FINAL THOUGHTS:

Generally speaking, the Skagit head that I choose to use can be determined by the length of the rod I'm using, but absolutely not limited to it.  In other words for example, if I were to fish a 13'6" 8wt rod, I normally would go for a full length Skagit head. The length of the rod accommodates the length of the skagit head very well.  Conversely, if I were to fish an 11' 7wt, I would most often choose a shorter Skagit head, which accommodates the shorter lengths of these rods.  If I were to fish with a 9' 7wt single handed rod, I would most likely go for a really short skagit such as the OPST Commando heads.

That being said, this doesn't mean I can't use a Commando head on a 13' rod, I know folks that do it and it works very well for them.  They are accomplished casters and understand that the shorter your head is the more compact your casting stroke should be.  So, visualize a 13' or even a 13'6" with a very short skagit head of 400gr which is only 16.5' long, you could see how your casting stroke would need to be very tight and pretty slow to prevent blowing the anchor.

To be less confusing when matching a Skagit Head to your rod (generally speaking):

• On rods greater than 12'6"- I typically would fish the full length Skagit heads. (i.e...Skagit Driver, Skagit Max Launch)
• On rods 12'6" to 11' - I will use the shorter Skagit heads. (i.e...Skagit Scout, Skagit Max Power)
• On rods 11'6" or less - Short Skagit heads like listed above or the even shorter Skagit heads like the OPST Commando heads work really well.

Technique Tip: While fishing with sinking Skagit Heads when you come to the end of your swing and are in the "hang down" phase, you will want to perform a roll cast directly down stream to free the tension of your sinking Skagit head and the sinktip from the water.  Once the roll cast is complete you can then go into your next cast.  This roll cast brings your sinking Skagit and sink tip to the surface and releases the tension so your next cast can effortlessly be made.  If you don't perform the roll cast first before going into the next cast, the tension of the sinking Skagit head and the sink tip will cause you to use way more effort to complete your next cast.  At the end of the day you will be tired.  I have had numerous conversations with customers who have experienced this and state that they hate the line.  They love how it fishes but hate how it casts.  Once they realize the roll cast is needed, all is good again.

Thanks for reading.

GFS Team

John G.

 

"The Gorge"

Gorge Fly Shop Team - 541.386.6977

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Late Fall Tactics For Summer Steelhead:

My OSG Outcast Pac 1000 patiently waits for me to finish swinging a run.

Seems like every steelhead season we're in at the time is my favorite, however, the Fall is definitely my favorite.  Each season offers something different.  Fall brings spectacular colors that line our favorite runs, low lying fog just touches the tops of those colorful trees, salmon have endured the journey and made it back home to spawn, not to forget the cooler mornings just bring a crispiness to the air.  There's a bald Eagle perched in the fir tree above looking for a meal, I mean seriously what a beautiful time of year and what's not to love? It makes you feel alive!

Disclaimer:  Below are tips which have worked well for me over the years.  There are a lot of experienced, amazing steelhead anglers who could easily add to this list.  Sometimes just thinking outside the box will produce results, but listed below are some tried and true tips that I hope will help you on your next trip out to your favorite river.

Fly Choices:  Generally, fall fly selections would be dominated by the use of sink tips and or sinking polyleaders or versileaders.  This is mostly due to the temperature of the water, depth and speed.  I really love and would rather fish an appropriate sized unweighted fly for the conditions of the run rather than fishing heavy weighted flies or heavy sink tips any day.  It's no secret that it's easier to cast unweighted flies and use the sink tip to get it down. However there are times you just have to go heavy. Heavier sink tips and heavier flies.

That being said, my fly choice really comes down to the color, speed and depth of the water I'm fishing.  The more off colored the water is the bigger and darker my fly choice would be.  As the river drops and becomes more clearer the smaller my fly choices become.  For instance, if water is dropping and the river is green and cold but not clear I will use more colorful fly such as the famous Fish Taco in Pink! I feel that the extra bling bling helps in the cold water temps. 

If the water gets really, really low and clear from a long spell of no rain, I will even fish my Scandi set up with a sinking polyleader or versileader and use a smaller summer style wet fly, like the Purple Muddler Minnow or a Mack's Canyon for example.  If fish become spooky because of pressure and or a lack of water, this tactic has proven successful in the past for me.

Historical Flies of Choice:

Fishing Tip:  If you're swinging a larger fly and you get a grab or a pluck during the swing, change your fly to a smaller one in similar colors and often enough you will get smoked!

• Hartwick's Marabou Tube - variety of colors.
• Hoh Bo Spey - variety of colors.
• Fish Taco's - variety of colors.
• Bantam's - on the smaller side - various colors.
• Brett's Klamath Intruder - on the smaller side - Black/Blue a favorite, but other colors work.
• Stu's Intruders (Ostrich and Barred Ostrich) - various colors.
• Muddler Minnow (Yes, on a sink tip) - Purple is a favorite.

Shop Steelhead Sink Tip Flies Here!

Sink Tips:  Undoubtedly one of the most confusing parts of fishing with spey rods, especially if you're new to the game.  There are way too many options, right?  I assure you that it's nice to have an assortment of tips, but I find that I use the basics most often.

For nearly most conditions I will use 4 or 5 different sink tips to cover the water I am fishing.  Rather than changing sink tips 2 or 3 times in a run, I will adjust my cast to accomplish what I need to do to cover the water effectively.  My go to sink tips would be, the:

• RIO MOW Tip Light 10' T-8
• MOW Tip Medium 10' T-11
• RIO MOW Tip Light 5'Float/5' T8
• RIO MOW Tip Medium 5' Float/5' T-11
• Occasionally RIO MOW Tip Heavy 10' T-14.

Those tips are what I use the majority of the time and even within those tips, the two tips that get the most play are the 10' T-8 and T-11.

Shop Sink Tips Here!

Fishing Tip:  You may or may not know that sink tips have a dual purpose.  #1. Not only does it get your fly down faster, but #2, it also helps turn over the weighted fly better.  A good example is that 10' of  T-14 is better at turning over a heavily weighted intruder, than a much lighter T-8 or even T-11.  Mass moves mass.  If you're using that T-14 sink tip to help turn over a heavy intruder better but it gets down too deep too fast, simply direct your cast more downstream and bring the fly into tension quicker to keep it from sinking too deep.  Hope that makes sense.

Sinking Leaders (Airflo Polyleaders or RIO Versileaders):  Polyleaders and Versileaders designed for and work well when using a Scandi style head or a single hand rod.  They don't really work very well when combined with a Skagit type head.  The easiest way to explain and describe the difference between a "Sink Tip" and a Polyleader or Versileader is that the latter replaces your leader, whereas a sink tip, has more mass and sinks much better and stays down better.  Polyleaders and Versileaders have a monofilament core and Sink tips will have a braided core that is much thinner in diameter and will stay deeper in the water column.

Shop Polyleaders & Versileaders Here!

Fishing Tip:  In continued low and clear conditions during late fall and even through winter, don't be afraid to use your summer "Scandi" set up with an intermediate or slow sinking polyleader or versileader and a smaller non-weighted fly.  You may be surprised of your success in tough conditions.

Swing Speed:  Some may not even think about this, but your swing speed is crucial for success.  General rule is that the colder the water, the more you should slow down your swing.  When I first started fly fishing for steelhead, I'll admit that I just cast out there and let what happen, happen.  I even caught a few steelhead.  Dare I say even enough to think I was doing it right.

But, I'll say that again, BUT, when I discovered and learned how to control my swing speed and mend correctly my hook up ratio skyrocketed and I realized the importance of this.  I started to visualize my presentation of the fly and how it looked during the swing.  I also realized how much I was over mending, way over mending.  Now, when I mend it's rarely, and most often it's just a slight lift of the rod tip either upstream or downstream of my fly line to make the adjustment that's needed and that is it.

Fishing Tip:  The more you angle your cast downstream, the slower the swing will be.  Once you cast, then set the fly up for the swing there is less resistance against the line when compared to casting at a greater upstream 45 degree angle.  If you need to get deeper, then a greater angled cast upstream with an extra mend or two will give your sink tip and fly more time to sink deeper.

Fishing Through a Run:  Cover the water well. That doesn't mean fish it forever.  Having a system enables you to know that you fished it well.  I would rather cover more water in the time I have to fish than fish one spot the entire time.  Even if I am only going to fish one run, I would rather fish it twice than just once real slow.  I can tell you without hesitation that I have caught more fish going through the same run two or three times than I ever have fishing it super slow.

Visualize a grid, and when you step into the run, if deep enough, start with about half of your Skagit head out of the tip of your rod.  You'll be surprised how many fish you will catch before you ever get the full Skagit head out of your rod.  It's exciting to catch a short line steelhead!  After each cast, pull off another strip of line and make another cast, repeat this process until you have cast as far as you can or as far as needed.  Then after that cast, take a step or two downstream and make that same long cast again.  By the time you reach the end of the run you will have completely covered the entire run in a grid like fashion and any fish would have been able to see your fly.

In addition, say you're fishing a deeper run and need to get the fly down deeper.  Using the same Grid like pattern and rather than taking a step or two down before your next cast, make the cast first, pull your fly into position, throw a slight down stream mend in the line and then take your step or two downstream.  This will allow your fly time to sink deeper before coming into tension and start your swing.

Fishing Tip:  When fishing a run with lots of boulders and conflicting currents, using a line such as the Airflo F.I.S.T. or RIO GameChanger , or the RIO PickPocket will help you get most of the head under the surface current and it really, really helps to slow down your swing.  Which is perfect for late fall and through the winter months when water temps are getting colder.  This is a go to set up to use when your typical Skagit looks like a snake swimming on the surface of the water during the swing.  This scenario typically calls for way more mending with you typical Skagit head to achieve a nice swing but using the above listed types of heads will give you a more uniformed juicy swing we all have come to love, with very little mending at all!

A side note to swinging flies during the fall, especially later, is those beautifully colored leaves we all love and admire start to fall to the river and can become a nuisance to say the least.  On a windy day the river can become completely inundated with the leaves and make it very difficulty if not almost impossible to swing a fly with out hooking leaves. Leaves will be in every column of the water depth.  My experience with this situation is that I rarely catch steelhead utilizing any technique while this is happening.  I have caught a few fish during the leaf hatch, but when it's at it's worst it's difficult!  I would say that most of the steelhead that I have caught during the leaf hatch have come while indicator fishing.

How I Deal With the Leaves:   

• I will Indicator Fish: This is a more effective way to fish for the Steelhead when the leaves are bad enough that it is difficult to swing flies.  The presentation is more up and down rather than swinging through the run.  This doesn't mean fishing with an indicator set up is a fool proof way to avoid the leaves because it isn't, you'll still have to deal with them but it's less frequent.
• I will give the river a rest and organize your gear or work on my "honey do" list.

Hope this helps as you fish this fall and winter.  Have a great fall & winter season, if you have any questions we love to talk fishing here at the shop.

GFS Team

John

"The Gorge"

Gorge Fly Shop Team - 541.386.6977

GorgeFlyShop.com  |  Join our Team |  Contact Us

"Fly Fish the World with Us"

BUYER'S GUIDE TO SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED STILLWATER FLY LINES:

Sometimes fishing late pays off with stunning lake sunsets. (photo by Callum Brock)

Lake fishing seems like it should be simple, I mean, growing up as a child and going to the local lakes  was pretty simple, especially when fishing over planted fish.  However, now, knowing what I know, it can be quite technical.  As Callum from the shop here says it..."Lake fishing is the perfect example of how simple it can be or how complicated you want to make it."  I couldn't agree more.

That being said, it's amazing how technical stillwater fishing can be and it can make your head spin trying to choose which lines to use/buy.  Anyone who loves to fish lakes knows what I'm saying.  Honestly, I mean no offense, unless you're a stillwater ninja, the need for all the different types of stillwater lines out there seems uneccessary.  I hope to try and simplify things here and hope that I'm successful.  When it comes down to it, most often I'm fishing a couple to three lines at the most.  Especially if I am fishing from a float tube or pontoon and space is limited and I can't carry extra rods or a bunch of spare spools.  On the other hand, if I am in my drift boat, then I will carry more in case I need it.

FLOATING LINES:

RIO'S Elite Stillwater Floater:

RIO Elite Stillwater Floater.

RIO Elite Stillwater Floater Taper Profile

When fishing stillwater (lakes) having a full floating line that performs well is a necessity.  I personally like a floating line that can serve as an all-around multi-purpost line.  Unless I'm fishing out of a boat and have much more room for extra rods with different specialized lines, a multi-purpose all around line comes in real handy. 

The RIO Elite Stillwater Floater has been specifically designed to easily cast long leaders, and will turnover indicator rigs with multi-fly set ups we commonly use while Chironomid fishing.  This line has the ultra-low stretch ConnectCore Plus core that provides unbelievable sensitivity for those sometimes subtle takes for a quicker reaction time when setting the hook.  The Stillwater Floater also has a Hang Marker which allows you to estimate when to stop your retrieve and fish the "hang down" which can be extreamly effective.  This line additionally has the SlickCast coating for incredible casting and durability as well and the MaxFloat Tip, which helps keep the tip of the line from sinking as many floating lines tend to, especially when dirty.  The Elite Stillwater Line works well fishing from a boat or from shore.

NOTE:  It is always a great idea to carry a few of the RIO Fly Line Cleaning Towelette's in your boat, pontoon or vest when fishing lakes.  If your floating line starts to sink, they are a blessing and you can get a quick cleaning and your back to full floating.

• RIO Fly Line Cleaning Towelette:

Airflo SuperFLO Stillwater Floater Fly Line:

Airflo SuperFLO Stillwater Floater

Airflo SuperFLO Stillwater Floater Taper Profile

Airflo's version of the stillwater floating line has their classic Delta Taper which is great for casting multiple fly set ups for distance with minimal disturbance on the waters surface, which helps prevent spooking fish.  Airflo lines are made with a durable Polyurethane coating and are 100% PVC free.  This has proven that the lines last longer over time.  In addition, the FLO technology has made it possible to create thinner diameter running lines in comparison to their older lines.  This is a huge improvement because the newer lines are super slick and have minimal friction when going through the rod guides.

Scientific Anglers Amplitude Smooth Anadro Stillwater Indicator:

SA Amplitude Smooth Anadro Stillwater Indicator Line

SA Amplitude Smooth Anadro Stillwater Indicator taper profile.

The Scientific Anglers Amplitude Smooth Anadro Stillwater Indicator fly line has become a pretty popular Chironomid line when using strike indicators.  I like this line alot.  It roll cast really well and is easy to see with it's alternating Hi-Vis bands near the tip.  Even in low light conditions, I can easily track it.  I also like the fact that it is one and a half line sizes heavy so there is no need to upsize the line for your rod.  This also takes less effort to roll cast because it easily loads your rod so that you don't have to "make it" or try to "force it" to roll cast.  With every rod that I have used this line on I just get the line that matches the rating of the rod.  In other words if you have a 6wt rod, get the 6 weight line and you're good to go.

NOTE:  One thing to note is that indicator specific lines tend to take up a lot more room on your reel because of the fact that they are sized heavy.  Instead of a standard 6wt line being put on your 5/6wt rated reel, you're now trying to put a line that is more like a 7.5wt line on that reel.  So your backing capacity will need to be adjusted accordingly.  We also typically use longer rods like a 9.5' or 10' rod and sizing up on the reel is a great idea for two reasons,  #1 it will balance out the rod better and #2 it will have the capacity to hold the right amount of backing and the indicator fly line. Make sence?

Beautiful Bow Bow, caught with a Chironomid and a sinking line.

SINKING LINES:

Let's face it, when fishing stillwater, having sinking lines is critical to consistent success, especially when fish are not activly feeding on or near the surface.  This is where it can be overwhelming, with so many choices of different sink rates available.  Some manufactuers even have different stages of intermediate sink rates which we will discuss shortly.  This is where having multiple spare spools make sense to me, especially when fishing from a float tube or pontoon.  If you can easily change the spool to accomadate the techinque or sink rate you need, then having spare spools uses up less space than having seperate rods for each depth or tecnique to get the job done.

RIO Elite Sub-Surface CamoLux Fly Line

RIO's CamoLux Sub-Surface Line

CamoLux Taper Profile

I probably use the RIO CamoLux sinking line the most.  It's a full interemdiate line that sinks at 1.5-2 inches per second, and is perfect for fishing near shore or in shallower areas or even when slow trolling.  This line works really well when fishing Chironomids without an indicator and utilizing a super slow figure of eight retrieve.

The beautiful thing about this line is that the weight forward taper makes it pretty easy to roll cast or overhead cast and it has a hang marker to let you know to stop stripping and start slowly raising your rod tip up to fish just under the boat.  This can be extremely effective.

The CamoLux comes in line sizes 4wt to 8wt and has a camo tone color scheme and the ConnectCore Plus technology.  Another option of this line is the RIO AquaLux, which has the same taper and sink rate as the CamoLux but has a Clear/Translucent Green color scheme.

SA Scientific Anglers:  Sonar Stillwater Clear Camo

SA Sonar Stillwater Clear Camo Fly Line

Intermediate Versions:  SA's Sonar Stillwater Clear Camo line with AST (Advance Shooting Technology) is famous for this technology which is an aditive that is impregnated into the line and creates a super slick line that cast like a dream and it enhances the lines durability.  This line has also been built on the very popular MPX taper and it is a full intermediate sinking line that sinks at a rate of 1.25" per second, allowing you to fish just under the surface and choppy water and it is a full line size heavy, so there is no need to line size up.  This line is perfectly suited to fish nymphs and streamers in your favorite lakes when you're not trying to get deep fast.  Offered in line sizes 4wt thru 8wt line sizes.

SA Seamless Density Lines

Deeper Sinking Versions:  SA Sonar Stillwater Seamless Density fly lines are designed to provide straight line presentations to your subsurface flies with a seamless transition between the sink rates.  These lines are based off the SA MPX taper and are two line sizes heavy for casting multiple fly set ups.  Offered in S1/S3, S3/S5 and S5/S7

Airflo:  Sixth Sense Stillwater Fly Lines

Intermediate Versions:  New to us is the Airflo Sixth Sense 2 with Power Core and a smooth running line.  A few have started to show up in the shop recently.  The line boast low stretch of 6% and has hang markers at 10', 20' and 40' so there is no excuse to not fish the hang and feel confident you know exactly where what your depth is.  Just in the intermediate versions, they have three different options, #1 Slow Intermediate at .5" per second, #2 Mid Interemdiate at 1" per second, and #3 Fast Intermediate at 1.5" per second.  I personally would never fish all three of these, BUT if you're a stillwater ninja like I mentioned before, you might need all three.  If I had to settle on one of the three, I would just fish the normal intermediate which is the Fast Interemdiate at 1.5" per second.

That said, I could totally see fishing the slow intermediate for instance in the very shallow weed beds along the shoreline where fish are cruising.  Being able to keep your fly in the zone would be pretty important in that instance.  A line that sinks too fast, requires a faster retrieve if trying to fish in shallow water, therefore giving the fish less time to decide to eat.  Other manufactuers like RIO and Scientific Anglers have a Hover and Midge-Tip verstion of these slower sinking "intermediate" rates of .5" - 1" per second.

Airflo Sixth Sense Sinking Stillwater Fly Lines

Sixth Sense Taper Profile

Airflo's Sixth Sense Stillwater sinking lines come in a variety of sink rates.  If you need a line that sinks deeper than the intermediate sink rates, you can choose from either Sink 3 (3ips), Sink 5 (5ips), Sink 7 (7ips) and Sink 8 (8ips).  Comes in line weights from WF5/6 TO WF8/9.  These lines are very subtle and easy to manage, which is really nice and helps cut down on the line coiling on retrieves.  These are also great for slow trolling or a slow figure of eight retrieve.

NOTE:  The Airflo Sixth Sense sinking lines DO NOT come with a tip section loop at the front, there is a loop that attaches to the backing but not one up front.

RIO: Lake Series Fathom Sinking Lines

RIO's Fathom Sinking Line

RIO's assortment of Lake Series lines pretty much have you covered for any situation you might find yourself fishing.  Just like Scientific Anglers and Airflo, RIO has put a lot of thought and effort in helping stillwater fisherman become better and more consistent anglers.  From full floating lines, to Hover lines, to Midge Tip lines to Sink 3 to sink 7 lines.

One cool thing about the different colors for  the different sink rates is that, if you can remember, just by glancing at the reel, you will be able to tell the sink rate by the color.  Honestly I am a big fan of the sinking lines since I use them the majority of the time, which makes sense also because the trout spend their majority of time below the surface.

Parablolic/Cleansweep sinking lines:

These lines get even more technical.  Designed to sink in a "U" shape allowing to fish different depths in a single cast and retrieve.  Wether you use the RIO Fathom CleanSweep or the Scientific Anglers Sonar Stillwater Parabolic Sink line, you will be fishing effectively.  These lines help cover the more water per cast than a typical sinking line because when you strip the fly in, you go from shallow, to deep, level out a bit and then go from deep to shallower as you retreive.  Sounds pretty effective doesn't it.  Well, you should try it and see what happens.

RIO's CleanSweep Lines - Slow & Fast Sink - Avail in 5 through 8 wt lines.

Scientific Anglers Sonar Stillwater Parabloic Sink Line

Available in 5 thru 7 wt lines.

As you can probably see by the length of this article that there are a lot of options of fly lines for stillwater fishing.  I'm just scratching the surface without really going in to super detail about each line.  This is where it is good to call the shop if you need to get deeper into it.

As a kid, I loved how it seemed simple to go lake fishing.  Never gave it much thought.  We just went and fished and whatever happened, happened.  Now that I'm older and more inclined to think about why I am not catching trout in a lake, I am very pleased that we have the assortment of lines to choose from.  Turns out, that having your fly at the right depth and the right time makes a huge difference.

Well, nuff said.  Hope you got something out of this.  If you have questions you can always give us a call at 541-386-6977.

GFS Team

John G.

PARTING SHOT:

Beautiful Rainbow couldn't resist a Chironomid and a super slow retrieve on sinking line.

"The Gorge"

Gorge Fly Shop Team - 541.386.6977

GorgeFlyShop.com  |  Join our Team |  Contact Us

"Fly Fish the World with Us"